The River Colne runs through Colchester, emptying into the Blackwater at Brightlingsea and Mersea Island. Starting at Hythe we go south past an industrial area on one side of the river, and on the other new riverside housing and the plate-glass University of Essex. A long stretch of the path passes through marsh, woods and the village of Rowhedge. At Wivenhoe we stop to rest at a pub and then continue along the quay, past the Colne Flood Barrier into marshland again and what is now the Colne Estuary. Turning back, we explore Wivenhoe streets on the way to the station.

You’ll hear about the history of the port of Colchester, which moved from Hythe to Wivenhoe in the 17th century and ended with the coming of the railway. Rowhedge and Wivenhoe were smuggling and fishing villages known for oysters and scallops. You’ll see how the whole river and estuary area has adapted, how architecture has changed and who lives here now. Bohemian and gay history are represented, as well as four legends of beasts: wyvern, serpent, black dog and stranded whale.

The path is hard-packed, but mud is always possible in these marshes, and this will be a day of high tides. A bit over 4 miles long, the walk takes about 3 hours beginning at Hythe Station (Colchester) and ending at Wivenhoe Station. Journeys between Wivenhoe and London Liverpool Street take 1¼ hours or less.

Below see your hosts, Rob Smith and Laura Agustín, in a Maldon pub after a recce.