{"id":4432,"date":"2015-06-01T20:54:09","date_gmt":"2015-06-01T19:54:09","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/footprintsoflondon.com\/?p=4432"},"modified":"2015-06-01T20:54:09","modified_gmt":"2015-06-01T19:54:09","slug":"the-great-tailors-of-london-anderson-and-sheppard","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/footprintsoflondon.com\/live\/2015\/06\/the-great-tailors-of-london-anderson-and-sheppard\/","title":{"rendered":"The Great Tailors of London: Anderson and Sheppard"},"content":{"rendered":"

 <\/p>\n

Michael Duncan<\/a>\u00a0talks about Anderson & Sheppard – one of the tailors in his walk Suited and Booted – Savile Row and the Birth of British Style<\/a>\u00a0on 9th June<\/span><\/p>\n

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\"anderson<\/a><\/p>\n

Tom Ford is quoted as saying that Anderson and Sheppard is the best tailor in the world.\u00a0 And who would dare dispute a man of such taste? <\/span>But A&S is a relative newcomer to the world of Savile Row,\u00a0 where it spent most of its years before moving to its current premises on Old Burlington Street.<\/span>But what makes this Johnnie-come-lately so special..after all it\u2019s only been on the scene since 1906?<\/span><\/p>\n

A&S were the revolutionaries of their time.\u00a0 The sign outside their shop branded them clearly as \u201ccivil tailors\u201d.\u00a0 The other establishments on the Row had their roots in military tailoring\u2026look at Gieves and Hawkes at No 1 for instance or Meyer and Mortimer on Sackville Street.<\/span>And this very English revolutionary really wasn\u2019t that English at all.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

It all started when a young radical Dutch tailor called Frederick Scholte pitched up in London at the start of the last century and started to train up a young Swedish tailor called Per Anderson.\u00a0 (Anderson would later team up with a skilled trouser cutter called Sidney Sheppard to found A&S). <\/span>Until the arrival of Scholte the English suit was neatly fitted with its style firmly derivative of military tailoring.<\/span><\/p>\n

But take a look at the A&S suit\u2026now the classic English suit.\u00a0<\/span>Compare it to what came before as well as what the Italian cut is today. <\/span>It\u2019s known as the English drape.\u00a0 It has a softer look, the shoulder is sloped and not padded, the silhouette described as limp (but not in a bad way!).\u00a0\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

The \u201cdrape\u201d of a coat is the way a Saville Row cutter describes how a jacket hangs from the shoulders.\u00a0 Frederick Scholte liked to cut his jackets generously over the shoulder blades and chest so the fabric would gracefully hang from a gentleman\u2019s body. \u00a0 Scholte also liked plenty of room in the upper sleeves, to allow comfortable movement.\u00a0 The trick was to cut the armholes high and small to hold the jacket into place and prevent the wearer from looking as if he was wearing a sack.\u00a0 By doing this the jacket would be held in place when the wearer lifted his arms and the collar stay snug to the neck. <\/span>Need a better idea of what it looks like?\u00a0 Well think <\/span>Prince Charles in a double-breasted suit or Brian Ferry draped round someone at a fancy club:\u00a0 the odds are that they are wearing Anderson and Sheppard.<\/span><\/p>\n

For A&S to become the most famous proponent of this so called \u201cScholte style\u201d was no easy achievement.\u00a0 Anderson started business in 1906 and it was only in the late 1920\u2019s and 1930\u2019s that the English drape came into fashion. <\/span>But Scholte not only gave A&S a style to work on.\u00a0 He also helped them by being difficult. <\/span>Scholte took a dim view of show-business people.\u00a0 But the Anderson and Shepperd boys weren\u2019t so stuffy. <\/span>So come on down Noel Coward, George Gershwin, Richard Rodgers, Ivor Novello and Cole Porter.\u00a0<\/span>And not forgetting Fred Astaire who was a regular paying from 1923.<\/span><\/p>\n

But you couldn\u2019t just walk in. You had to have a reference from an existing customer; more a way of vouching that the new customer could pay his bills.\u00a0\u00a0<\/span>So looking through the record we see that Noel Coward vouched for Laurence Olivier and Douglas Fairbanks Jr. vouched for A&S\u2019s most famous woman client, his lover , Marlene Dietrich. \u00a0 So A&S don\u2019t discriminate when it comes to gender\u2026.you just have to want a man\u2019s suit.\u00a0 And Marlene loved her men\u2019s suits.\u00a0<\/span>An A&S suite does not come cheap\u2026.your first bespoke one will set you back a comfortable \u00a34000, but they are expected to last.\u00a0 A ten year old suit is considered new in the rarified world of A&S.\u00a0\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Prince Charles married Camilla Parker Bowles in a 13 year old A&S morning suit.\u00a0 And downstairs at A&S, suits go for a adjustments and tweaks after decades of\u00a0 service. <\/span>According the \u201cThe Rake\u201d that modern arbiter of all things stylish,\u00a0 \u201c The firm’s soft drape suit represented the modern era’s most significant revelation in men’s tailoring – a sartorial reformation, if you will. Anderson & Sheppard’s heretical approach rocked the tailoring world, \u2026.\u2026 \u00a0An Anderson & Sheppard suit clad the wearer in perfect nonchalant elegance, while providing a never-before-attained level of mobility and comfort.\u00a0 It was truly a revelation.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

  Michael Duncan\u00a0talks about Anderson & Sheppard – one of the tailors in his walk Suited and Booted – Savile Row and the Birth of British Style\u00a0on 9th June Tom Ford is quoted as saying that Anderson and Sheppard is the best tailor in the world.\u00a0 And who would dare dispute a man of such…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":7,"featured_media":4433,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[7,61],"tags":[182],"class_list":["post-4432","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-city-of-westminster","category-shops","tag-savile-row"],"yoast_head":"\nThe Great Tailors of London: Anderson and Sheppard - Footprints of 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